{"id":68,"date":"2022-05-27T09:45:00","date_gmt":"2022-05-27T07:45:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/cosibella-sk.jdmsite.com\/?p=68"},"modified":"2025-10-23T13:45:46","modified_gmt":"2025-10-23T11:45:46","slug":"vitamin-c-v-pletovej-kozmetike","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/cosibella.sk\/blog\/vitamin-c-v-pletovej-kozmetike\/","title":{"rendered":"Vitam\u00edn C v ple\u0165ovej kozmetike"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Vitam\u00edn C &#8211; kyselina L-askorbov\u00e1<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Je v kozmetickej ch\u00e9mii a kozmetol\u00f3gii v\u010faka svojim ve\u013emi siln\u00fdm antioxida\u010dn\u00fdm vlastnostiam pova\u017eovan\u00e1 za vitam\u00edn mladosti. Kyselina L-askorbov\u00e1 nie je produkovan\u00e1 \u013eudsk\u00fdm telom, preto by mala by\u0165 dod\u00e1van\u00e1 externe \u2013 prostredn\u00edctvom stravy. Najviac vitam\u00ednu C sa nach\u00e1dza v rastlinn\u00fdch produktoch, ako je&nbsp;<strong>acerola, \u010dierne r\u00edbezle a \u0161\u00edpky<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Hoci s jedlom konzumujeme ve\u013ek\u00e9 mno\u017estvo vitam\u00ednu C, n\u00e1rast obsahu tohto vitam\u00ednu v ko\u017ei je pomerne mierny. Navy\u0161e je toto mno\u017estvo zn\u00ed\u017een\u00e9 vplyvom vo\u013en\u00fdch radik\u00e1lov obsiahnut\u00fdch v prostred\u00ed. Na potla\u010denie tohto procesu by mala by\u0165 kyselina L-askorbov\u00e1 aplikovan\u00e1 lok\u00e1lne, najlep\u0161ie vo forme kozmetick\u00e9ho pr\u00edpravku.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Vitam\u00edn C je, v\u010faka svojim blahodarn\u00fdm vlastnostiam, jedn\u00fdm z vitam\u00ednov, ktor\u00e9 s\u00fa naj\u010dastej\u0161ie prid\u00e1van\u00e9 do kozmetick\u00fdch pr\u00edpravkov:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>utes\u0148uje krvn\u00e9 cievy<\/strong>&nbsp;\u2013 ovplyv\u0148uje synt\u00e9zu kolag\u00e9nu typu I a III. Kolag\u00e9ny typu I a III s\u00fa z\u00e1kladn\u00fdmi zlo\u017ekami zam\u0161e a nosnou l\u00e1tkou krvn\u00fdch ciev.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>m\u00e1 protiz\u00e1palov\u00e9 vlastnosti<\/strong>&nbsp;\u2013 v\u00fdsledok zn\u00ed\u017eenia aktivity jadrov\u00e9ho transkrip\u010dn\u00e9ho faktora NFK-B, ktor\u00fd je zodpovedn\u00fd za produkciu proz\u00e1palov\u00fdch cytok\u00ednov, vr\u00e1tane interleuk\u00ednu 10 (IL-10). Interleuik\u00edn 10 (IL-10), ako jeden z mnoh\u00fdch proz\u00e1palov\u00fdch cytok\u00ednov, je zodpovedn\u00fd za udr\u017eiavanie lok\u00e1lneho z\u00e1palu, \u010do znamen\u00e1, \u017ee ko\u017ea potrebuje viac \u010dasu na regener\u00e1ciu.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>m\u00e1 zosvet\u013euj\u00faci \u00fa\u010dinok<\/strong>&nbsp;&#8211; m\u00e1 schopnos\u0165 inhibova\u0165 enz\u00fdm tyrozin\u00e1zy, ktor\u00fd sa podie\u013ea na tvorbe melan\u00ednu &#8211; ko\u017en\u00e9ho pigmentu. Sp\u00f4sobuje to vytvorenie men\u0161ieho a zmen\u0161enie u\u017e existuj\u00faceho mno\u017estva pigmentu, \u010do m\u00e1 vplyv na zosvetlenie poko\u017eky alebo &#8211; pri dlh\u0161om pou\u017e\u00edvan\u00ed &#8211; zjednotenie t\u00f3nu pleti.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>podporuje ochranu pred UV \u017eiaren\u00edm<\/strong>&nbsp;&#8211; zni\u017euje eryt\u00e9m sp\u00f4soben\u00fd UVB \u017eiaren\u00edm, v\u010faka \u010domu je dokonal\u00fdm doplnkom p\u00f4sobenia slne\u010dn\u00fdch filtrov.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">V Cosibella n\u00e1jdete senza\u010dn\u00e9 <a href=\"https:\/\/cosibella.sk\/sk\/menu\/starostlivost-o-plet\/pletove-kremy\/kremy-s-vitaminom-c-1391\">kr\u00e9my s vitam\u00ednom C<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/cosibella.sk\/sk\/menu\/starostlivost-o-plet\/pletove-sera\/sera-s-vitaminom-c-27909\">s\u00e9ra s vitam\u00ednom C<\/a> a mnoho \u010fal\u0161\u00edch kozmetick\u00fdch pr\u00edpravkov, ktor\u00e9 sa pr\u00edjemne pou\u017e\u00edvaj\u00fa a prin\u00e1\u0161aj\u00fa skvel\u00e9 v\u00fdsledky.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Kyselina L-askorbov\u00e1 &#8211; INCI:&nbsp;<em>Ascorbic Acid<\/em><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Akt\u00edvna forma vitam\u00ednu C, vykazuj\u00faca&nbsp;<strong>vysok\u00fa nestabilitu<\/strong>. Ide o ve\u013emi nepriazniv\u00fd jav spo\u010d\u00edvaj\u00faci v rozklade l\u00e1tok pod vplyvom vonkaj\u0161\u00edch faktorov (teplota, vzduch, svetlo, nevhodn\u00e9 pH), ktor\u00e9 ved\u00fa k strate cenn\u00fdch vlastnost\u00ed vitam\u00ednu C. Strata stability a vlastnost\u00ed je tie\u017e ovplyvnen\u00e1 pr\u00edtomnos\u0165ou i\u00f3nov \u0165a\u017ek\u00fdch kovov, najm\u00e4 medi a \u017eeleza, \u010do znamen\u00e1, \u017ee kozmetick\u00e9 spolo\u010dnosti pou\u017e\u00edvaj\u00fa vo svojich produktoch namiesto kyseliny L-askorbovej rad\u0161ej jej deriv\u00e1ty. V kozmetick\u00fdch v\u00fdrobkoch sa v\u0161ak kyselina L-askorbov\u00e1 pou\u017e\u00edva v lipozom\u00e1lnej forme (pozri odsek vy\u0161\u0161ie). \u010cist\u00e1 forma vitam\u00ednu C sa odpor\u00fa\u010da na mastn\u00fa ple\u0165 s nadmernou seboreou. Je stabiln\u00e1 pri pH 3,5 alebo menej.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>V\u00fdhody:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Vysoko efekt\u00edvne \u00fa\u010dinky<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>R\u00fdchle rozjasnenie a zlep\u0161enie farby matnej poko\u017eky<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Nev\u00fdhody:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>N\u00edzka stabilita pri rozpusten\u00ed vo vode<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>U \u013eud\u00ed s citlivou poko\u017ekou sp\u00f4sobuje rozsiahle podr\u00e1\u017edenia<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>N\u00edzke pH a kyselinov\u00fd charakter<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Potreba prida\u0165 do kozmetiky alkoholy a glykoly &#8211; s\u00fa promotory prechodu pre kyselinu L-askorbov\u00fa<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Po\u017eadovan\u00e9 n\u00edzke kysl\u00e9 pH (ni\u017e\u0161ie ako 3,5) &#8211; z\u00e1ruka preniknutia kyseliny L-askorbovej cez rohov\u00fa vrstvu poko\u017eky<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u010cist\u00fa formu&nbsp;<strong>vitam\u00ednu C<\/strong>&nbsp;n\u00e1jdete okrem in\u00e9ho v:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"cosiHotspot skeleton\" data-products=\"4990,23020,22944\" data-list=\"blog_slider\" data-type=\"slider\" data-title=\"\" data-maxprod=\"4\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><em>Deriv\u00e1ty vitam\u00ednu C, ako je askorbylpalmit\u00e1t, askorbyl glukozid, hor\u010d\u00edk a fosfore\u010dnan sodn\u00fd, askorbyl-tetraizopalmit\u00e1t, ako aj kyselina 3-0 etyl askorbov\u00e1, s\u00fa stabilnej\u0161ie.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">2. Askorbyl palmit\u00e1t &#8211; INCI:&nbsp;<em>Ascorbyl Palmitate<\/em><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Je to&nbsp;<strong>v tukoch rozpustn\u00e1<\/strong>&nbsp;obdoba kyseliny askorbovej. T\u00e1to molekula po\u010das uvo\u013enenia do poko\u017eky podlieha hydrol\u00fdze a premie\u0148a sa na kyselinu askorbov\u00fa a kyselinu palmitov\u00fa. Napriek svojej vysokej stabilite m\u00e1 n\u00edzku biologick\u00fa aktivitu. Vitam\u00edn C v tejto forme tie\u017e p\u00f4sob\u00ed na zosvetlenie sfarbenia a stimuluje synt\u00e9zu kolag\u00e9nu. M\u00e1 protiz\u00e1palov\u00e9 vlastnosti t\u00fdm, \u017ee inhibuje proces peroxid\u00e1cie lipidov a chr\u00e1ni citliv\u00e9 nenas\u00fdten\u00e9 mastn\u00e9 kyseliny v hydrolipidovej bari\u00e9re. M\u00e1 ochrann\u00fd \u00fa\u010dinok proti UVA a UVB \u017eiareniu, zni\u017euje za\u010dervenanie po opa\u013eovan\u00ed. Be\u017ene pou\u017e\u00edvan\u00fdmi promotormi prenikania v kozmetick\u00fdch produktoch s vitam\u00ednom C s\u00fa z\u00e1kladn\u00e9 zlo\u017eky s\u00e9ra. Medzi ne patria alkoholy s n\u00edzkou molekulovou hmotnos\u0165ou (vr\u00e1tane propyl\u00e9nu a butyl\u00e9nglykolu), ktor\u00e9 p\u00f4sobia zmenou hydrat\u00e1cie kerat\u00ednu. Glykoly je mo\u017en\u00e9 bezpe\u010dne pou\u017e\u00edva\u0165 aj pri koncentr\u00e1cii 50% v hotovom pr\u00edpravku. M\u00f4\u017eu v\u0161ak sp\u00f4sobi\u0165 podr\u00e1\u017edenie, no len pri aplik\u00e1cii na po\u0161koden\u00fa a podr\u00e1\u017eden\u00fa poko\u017eku. Je to d\u00f4le\u017eit\u00fd aspekt aplik\u00e1cie kozmetiky s obsahom vitam\u00ednu C po\u010das slne\u010dn\u00fdch dn\u00ed. Ukazuje sa, \u017ee pravdepodobne za to zodpoved\u00e1 kozmetick\u00fd z\u00e1klad obsahuj\u00faci pr\u00edli\u0161 ve\u013ea promotorov penetr\u00e1cie, a nie samotn\u00fd vitam\u00edn C.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>V\u00fdhody:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Lep\u0161ia stabilita v porovnan\u00ed s \u010distou formou vitam\u00ednu C, v\u010faka rozpustnosti v tukoch<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Pomal\u00e9 uvo\u013e\u0148ovanie kyseliny askorbovej &#8211; miernej\u0161\u00ed \u00fa\u010dinok ako v pr\u00edpade \u010distej formy vitam\u00ednu C<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Deriv\u00e1t je stabiln\u00fd u\u017e pri neutr\u00e1lnom pH<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Nev\u00fdhody:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Obmedzen\u00e9 prenikanie do poko\u017eky<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Zle sa vstreb\u00e1va<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Neodpor\u00fa\u010da sa pou\u017e\u00edva\u0165 na podr\u00e1\u017eden\u00fa poko\u017eku<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">3. Askorbyl glukozid &#8211; INCI:&nbsp;<em>Ascorbyl Glucoside<\/em><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Vyr\u00e1ba sa z vitam\u00ednu C a \u0161krobu, ide o formu kyseliny askorbovej stabilizovanej molekulou gluk\u00f3zy. Tak\u00e1to kombin\u00e1cia umo\u017e\u0148uje jej postupn\u00e9 uvo\u013e\u0148ovanie a absorpciu do vrstiev poko\u017eky pod vplyvom enz\u00fdmu pr\u00edtomn\u00e9ho v ko\u017ei, \u03b1-glukozid\u00e1zy. Zjednocuje t\u00f3n pleti, zosvet\u013euje \u0161kvrny a zafarbenia. Zachov\u00e1va v\u0161etky vlastnosti kyseliny L-askorbovej a vykazuje ove\u013ea&nbsp;<strong>hlb\u0161ie prenikanie, stabilitu<\/strong>&nbsp;v kozmetike a t\u00fdm aj intenz\u00edvny \u00fa\u010dinok. T\u00e1to forma vitam\u00ednu C je stabiln\u00e1 pri pH 6,5 a\u017e 7,5.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>V\u00fdhody:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Miernej\u0161ie p\u00f4sobenie ako pri kyseline L-askorbovej<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Vy\u0161\u0161ia stabilita v porovnan\u00ed s \u010distou formou vitam\u00ednu C<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Priazniv\u00fd \u00fa\u010dinok na poko\u017eku vo vy\u0161\u0161om rozmedz\u00ed pH<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Mo\u017enos\u0165 preniknutia do hlb\u0161\u00edch vrstiev ko\u017ee<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>\u00da\u010dinne bojuje proti zafarbeniam<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Nev\u00fdhody:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Mo\u017enos\u0165 podr\u00e1\u017edenia poko\u017eky<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Ascorbyl glukozid<\/strong>&nbsp;n\u00e1jdete v:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"cosiHotspot skeleton\" data-products=\"1646,21556,20751\" data-list=\"blog_slider\" data-type=\"slider\" data-title=\"\" data-maxprod=\"4\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">4. Askorbylfosf\u00e1t hore\u010dnat\u00fd &#8211; INCI:&nbsp;<em>Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP)<\/em><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Hore\u010dnat\u00e1 so\u013e kyseliny askorbovej, rovnako ako akt\u00edvna forma vitam\u00ednu C, je&nbsp;<strong>rozpustn\u00fd vo vode<\/strong>, \u010do komplikuje prenikanie do hlb\u0161\u00edch vrstiev poko\u017eky. T\u00e1to so\u013e m\u00e1 slab\u0161\u00ed antioxida\u010dn\u00fd \u00fa\u010dinok ako \u010dist\u00fd vitam\u00edn C rovnakej koncentr\u00e1cie, preto by produkty mali obsahova\u0165 vysok\u00fa koncentr\u00e1ciu MAP \u2013 najmenej 15%. MAP sa odpor\u00fa\u010da pre tehotn\u00e9 a doj\u010diace \u017eeny a pre \u013eud\u00ed, ktor\u00fdch ko\u017ea vykazuje n\u00edzku toleranciu k dr\u00e1\u017ediv\u00fdm l\u00e1tkam.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Uvo\u013e\u0148ovanie kyseliny askorbovej z tejto formy do poko\u017eky je hydrolyzovan\u00e9 p\u00f4soben\u00edm enz\u00fdmu fosfat\u00e1zy. V koncentr\u00e1ci\u00e1ch nad 10% vykazuje \u00fa\u010dinn\u00e9 rozjas\u0148uj\u00face a antioxida\u010dn\u00e9 \u00fa\u010dinky. V porovnan\u00ed s kyselinou L-askorbovou je vo vodn\u00fdch roztokoch stabiln\u00fd a odolnej\u0161\u00ed vo\u010di oxid\u00e1cii. Vitam\u00edn C vo forme fosfore\u010dnanu hore\u010dnat\u00e9ho je cennou zlo\u017ekou podporuj\u00facou antioxida\u010dn\u00fd \u00fa\u010dinok rastlinn\u00fdch extraktov v recept\u00farach masiek, telov\u00fdch kr\u00e9mov a kr\u00e9mov proti starnutiu. Je stabiln\u00fd pri pH 7,0 \u2013 8,5.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>V\u00fdhody:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Ve\u013emi jemn\u00fd pre poko\u017eku<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Priazniv\u00fd \u00fa\u010dinok vo vy\u0161\u0161om rozmedz\u00ed pH<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Zabra\u0148uje melanogen\u00e9ze (procesu pigment\u00e1cie), \u010d\u00edm \u00fa\u010dinne rozjas\u0148uje sfarbenia.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Nev\u00fdhody:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Ve\u013emi n\u00edzka priepustnos\u0165 do ko\u017ee, nako\u013eko je rozpustn\u00fd vo vode<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Uvo\u013enenie men\u0161\u00edch d\u00e1vok kyseliny L-askorbovej &#8211; slab\u0161\u00ed antioxida\u010dn\u00fd \u00fa\u010dinok<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">MAP najdete v:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"cosiHotspot skeleton\" data-products=\"1085,21506,20127\" data-list=\"blog_slider\" data-type=\"slider\" data-title=\"\" data-maxprod=\"4\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">5. Askorbylfosf\u00e1t sodn\u00fd &#8211; INCI:&nbsp;<em>Sodium Ascorbyl Phospate (SAP)<\/em><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Sodn\u00e1 so\u013e kyseliny askorbovej, ktor\u00e1 sa vyzna\u010duje podobn\u00fdmi vlastnos\u0165ami ako MAP, m\u00e1 v\u0161ak aj&nbsp;<strong>siln\u00e9 antibakteri\u00e1lne vlastnosti<\/strong>, a preto je venovan\u00e1 poko\u017eke n\u00e1chylnej k akn\u00e9. Je vhodn\u00fd aj pre tehotn\u00e9 a doj\u010diace \u017eeny.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Naviac, m\u00e1 \u010fal\u0161\u00ed nepriamy antibakteri\u00e1lny \u00fa\u010dinok. Pou\u017e\u00edva sa v&nbsp;<strong><a href=\"https:\/\/cosibella.sk\/sk\/menu\/cielena-starostlivost\/potreby-pleti\/starostlivost-proti-nedokonalostiam-7041\">pr\u00edpravkoch proti akn\u00e9<\/a><\/strong>. Antioxida\u010dn\u00e9 vlastnosti vitam\u00ednu C v kozmetike p\u00f4sobia proti \u017eltnutiu sekretovan\u00e9ho mazu v bl\u00edzkosti mazov\u00fdch \u017eliaz. Pri be\u017enom akn\u00e9 sprev\u00e1dzaj\u00faca hyperkerat\u00f3za poko\u017eky zu\u017euje v\u00fdvody mazov\u00fdch \u017eliaz a sp\u00f4sobuje hromadenie mazov\u00e9ho sekr\u00e9tu, \u010do m\u00f4\u017ee vies\u0165 k posilneniu bakteri\u00e1lnej infekcie. Vitam\u00edn C v tejto forme br\u00e1ni tvorbe uhrov a oxid\u00e1cii mastn\u00fdch zlo\u017eiek mazu. Kozmetick\u00e9 v\u00fdrobky s touto formou vitam\u00ednu C&nbsp;<strong>odpor\u00fa\u010dan\u00e9 \u013eu\u010fom s problematickou poko\u017ekou<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>V\u00fdhody:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Najmiernej\u0161\u00ed, vodn\u00fd deriv\u00e1t kyseliny L-askorbovej<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Siln\u00e9 antibakteri\u00e1lne vlastnosti<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Priazniv\u00fd \u00fa\u010dinok vo vy\u0161\u0161om rozmedz\u00ed pH<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>P\u00f4sob\u00ed proti akn\u00e9 a nadmernej tvorbe mazu<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Nev\u00fdhody:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Ve\u013emi slab\u00e9 prenikanie do poko\u017eky<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">6. Tetrahexyldecyl-askorb\u00e1t &#8211; INCI:&nbsp;<em>Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate<\/em><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Naj\u00fa\u010dinnej\u0161\u00ed zo v\u0161etk\u00fdch deriv\u00e1tov vitam\u00ednu C, m\u00e1 tie\u017e najlep\u0161iu biologick\u00fa dostupnos\u0165 a zn\u00e1\u0161anlivos\u0165 s poko\u017ekou. Je vo&nbsp;<strong>forme oleja<\/strong>, v\u010faka ktor\u00e9mu m\u00e1 dobr\u00fa afinitu k lipidovej vrstve poko\u017eky. Vzh\u013eadom na inhib\u00edciu procesu melanogen\u00e9zy ve\u013emi \u00fa\u010dinne odstra\u0148uje sfarbenie. Okrem toho je tento deriv\u00e1t vhodn\u00fd aj pre jemn\u00fa poko\u017eku.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Trvanliv\u00e1 a stabiln\u00e1 forma vitam\u00ednu C v \u017eltom oleji. Prenik\u00e1 do hlb\u0161\u00edch vrstiev poko\u017eky. Obzvl\u00e1\u0161\u0165 \u00fa\u010dinn\u00e1 v emulzi\u00e1ch v koncentr\u00e1cii 1\u20133%. Je to cenn\u00e1, efekt\u00edvna a jedna z najdrah\u0161\u00edch foriem vitam\u00ednu C pou\u017e\u00edvan\u00fdch v kozmetike. Nevy\u017eaduje pou\u017eitie vysok\u00fdch koncentr\u00e1ci\u00ed, preto je prid\u00e1van\u00e1 v emulzi\u00e1ch, kr\u00e9moch a mask\u00e1ch proti starnutiu. Extr\u00e9mne dobre chr\u00e1ni poko\u017eku a \u00fa\u010dinne a spoma\u013euje v\u00fdskyt zn\u00e1mok starnutia.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>V\u00fdhody:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Naj\u00fa\u010dinnej\u0161ia forma kyseliny L-askorbovej<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Vysok\u00e1 \u00fa\u010dinnos\u0165 a \u00fa\u010dinnos\u0165 pri ve\u013emi n\u00edzkej koncentr\u00e1cii 1-3% &#8211; je to sp\u00f4soben\u00e9 vysok\u00fdm stup\u0148om penetr\u00e1cie do poko\u017eky<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Vysok\u00e1 stabilita v kozmetick\u00fdch pr\u00edpravkoch &#8211; vo forme oleja<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>M\u00e1 dlh\u0161\u00ed antioxida\u010dn\u00fd \u00fa\u010dinok ako \u010dist\u00e1 forma kyseliny L-askorbovej<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Priazniv\u00fd \u00fa\u010dinok vo vysokom rozmedz\u00ed pH<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>M\u00f4\u017ee by\u0165 pou\u017eit\u00e1 namiesto alebo spolo\u010dne s kyselinou L-askorbovou<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Nev\u00fdhody:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Najdrah\u0161\u00ed deriv\u00e1t kyseliny L-askorbovej<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Pomal\u0161ia antioxida\u010dn\u00e1 aktivita v porovnan\u00ed s kyselinou L-askorbovou.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">7. Kyselina 3-O-ethyl-L-askorbov\u00e1 &#8211; INCI:&nbsp;<em>3-0-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid<\/em><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Kyselina 3-O-etyl-L-askorbov\u00e1 je najnov\u0161\u00ed deriv\u00e1t kyseliny L-askorbovej. Rovnako ako tetrahexyldecyl-askorb\u00e1t sa vyzna\u010duje&nbsp;<strong>vysokou stabilitou<\/strong>. Je odoln\u00fd vo\u010di svetlu a teplote a prenik\u00e1 hlboko do poko\u017eky. Okrem toho inhibuje rast bakt\u00e9ri\u00ed a zni\u017euje z\u00e1paly. Je to&nbsp;<strong>jedin\u00fd deriv\u00e1t rozpustn\u00fd z\u00e1rove\u0148 v tukoch aj vo vode<\/strong>, tak\u017ee ho mo\u017eno \u013eahko prida\u0165 do v\u0161etk\u00fdch kozmetick\u00fdch pr\u00edpravkov. Vhodn\u00fd pre citliv\u00fa poko\u017eku.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">V porovnan\u00ed s vy\u0161\u0161ie uveden\u00fdmi deriv\u00e1tmi vitam\u00ednu C m\u00e1 t\u00e1to forma efekt\u00edvnej\u0161\u00ed \u00fa\u010dinok na poko\u017eku, je&nbsp;<strong>stabilnej\u0161ia a ove\u013ea lep\u0161ie biologicky dostupn\u00e1<\/strong>. Nesp\u00f4sobuje podr\u00e1\u017edenie ko\u017ee, a to ani vo vysok\u00fdch 20% koncentr\u00e1ci\u00e1ch v kozmetike ur\u010denej na ka\u017edodenn\u00e9 pou\u017eitie. Ako kyselinu ju tie\u017e dobre toleruj\u00fa osoby s citlivou poko\u017ekou. Chr\u00e1ni pred fotostarnut\u00edm, vo\u013en\u00fdmi radik\u00e1lmi a podporuje <a data-wpil-monitor-id=\"17\" href=\"https:\/\/cosibella.sk\/blog\/ochrana-pokozky-pred-slnkom\/\">ochranu pred slnkom<\/a>. Bojuje <a href=\"https:\/\/cosibella.sk\/blog\/top-5-osvedcenych-kozmetickych-pripravkov-proti-sfarbeniu\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">proti hyperpigment\u00e1cii a sfarbeniu<\/a> st\u00f4p po akn\u00e9. Testy potvrdili, \u017ee je ove\u013ea \u00fa\u010dinnej\u0161ia pri zni\u017eovan\u00ed zafarbenia ako arbut\u00edn alebo in\u00e9 vo vode rozpustn\u00e9 deriv\u00e1ty vitam\u00ednu C (askorbyl glukozid alebo askorbylfosf\u00e1t sodn\u00fd). Okrem toho bolo preuk\u00e1zan\u00e9, \u017ee kyselina 3-O-etyl-L-askorbov\u00e1 poskytuje \u00fa\u010dinn\u00fa ochranu pred modr\u00fdm svetlom (blue light). T\u00e1to forma je naj\u00fa\u010dinnej\u0161ia pri pH 3,0 &#8211; 5,0.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>V\u00fdhody:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Vysok\u00e1 stabilita za r\u00f4znych podmienok, odolnos\u0165 vo\u010di svetlu a teplote<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Zni\u017euje z\u00e1pal a rast bakt\u00e9ri\u00ed &#8211; antibakteri\u00e1lny \u00fa\u010dinok<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Ako jedin\u00fd deriv\u00e1t m\u00e1 amfifiln\u00fa molekulu (rozp\u00fa\u0161\u0165a sa vo vode aj v tukoch).<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Vysok\u00fd stupe\u0148 prenikania do poko\u017eky<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Nev\u00fdhody:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Pomal\u0161\u00ed \u00fa\u010dinok v porovnan\u00ed s \u010distou formou vitam\u00ednu C.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Ak\u00e9 kombin\u00e1cie kyseliny L-askorbovej s\u00fa prospe\u0161n\u00e9 a ktor\u00fdm sa je lep\u0161ie vyhn\u00fa\u0165?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Kozmetiku s n\u00edzkou koncentr\u00e1ciou vitam\u00ednu C je mo\u017en\u00e9 pou\u017e\u00edva\u0165 r\u00e1no aj ve\u010der. Pr\u00edpravky s vy\u0161\u0161ou koncentr\u00e1ciou by sa v\u0161ak mali pou\u017e\u00edva\u0165 iba ve\u010der, preto\u017ee m\u00f4\u017eu dr\u00e1\u017edi\u0165 poko\u017eku. S\u00fa\u010dasne s pou\u017e\u00edvan\u00edm tohto vitam\u00ednu by ste nemali zabudn\u00fa\u0165 na pou\u017eitie kr\u00e9mu s ochrann\u00fdm faktorom SPF, preto\u017ee kv\u00f4li vysokej koncentr\u00e1cii vitam\u00ednu C sa poko\u017eka st\u00e1va citlivej\u0161ou na slne\u010dn\u00e9 \u017eiarenie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Kombin\u00e1cia vitam\u00ednu C s resveratrolom (polyfenol patriaci k flavonoidom), ktor\u00fd zabra\u0148uje oxid\u00e1cii kyseliny L-askorbovej, je v kozmetick\u00fdch pr\u00edpravkoch ve\u013emi po\u017eadovan\u00e1. Ich spolo\u010dn\u00fd antioxida\u010dn\u00fd \u00fa\u010dinok je ove\u013ea \u00fa\u010dinnej\u0161\u00ed, ne\u017e keby boli pou\u017eit\u00e9 samostatne. Blahodarne p\u00f4sob\u00ed aj spojenie vitam\u00ednu C a rut\u00ednu (flavonoid rastlinn\u00e9ho p\u00f4vodu). Tento flavonoid m\u00e1 aj antioxida\u010dn\u00e9 vlastnosti, podporuje boj proti vo\u013en\u00fdm radik\u00e1lom, ktor\u00e9 po\u0161kodzuj\u00fa steny krvn\u00fdch ciev, \u010do zr\u00fdch\u013euje proces starnutia ko\u017ee. Rut\u00edn tie\u017e spoma\u013euje oxid\u00e1ciu vitam\u00ednu C a s\u00fa\u010dasne predl\u017euje jeho p\u00f4sobenie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Kontroverzn\u00e1 a&nbsp;<strong>neodpor\u00fa\u010dan\u00e1<\/strong>&nbsp;je kombin\u00e1cia&nbsp;<strong>vitam\u00ednu C s niacinamidom<\/strong>&nbsp;(vitam\u00edn B3) kv\u00f4li rozdielom v hodnote pH, v ktor\u00fdch tieto chemick\u00e9 zl\u00fa\u010deniny funguj\u00fa naj\u00fa\u010dinnej\u0161ie. Existuje aj riziko, \u017ee sa obe tieto l\u00e1tky m\u00f4\u017eu navz\u00e1jom neutralizova\u0165 a dokonca, vznikom komplexu medzi vitam\u00ednmi B3 a C, vytv\u00e1ra\u0165 \u0161kodliv\u00fd peroxid vod\u00edka. Tieto obavy sa v\u0161ak t\u00fdkaj\u00fa iba \u010distej, nestabilnej formy vitam\u00ednu C &#8211; kyseliny L-askorbovej, a nie jej deriv\u00e1tov, ktor\u00e9 s\u00fa stabilnej\u0161ie pri vy\u0161\u0161\u00edch hodnot\u00e1ch pH. Kombin\u00e1cia niac\u00ednamidu a vitam\u00ednu C navy\u0161e vedie k produkcii kyseliny nikot\u00ednovej, ale iba vtedy, ke\u010f tieto chemick\u00e9 zl\u00fa\u010deniny reaguj\u00fa dlh\u00fa dobu v prostred\u00ed s ve\u013emi vysokou teplotou. V\u00fdrobcovia sa v\u0161ak tejto kombin\u00e1cii vyh\u00fdbaj\u00fa, preto\u017ee kyselina nikot\u00ednov\u00e1 m\u00f4\u017ee sp\u00f4sobi\u0165 za\u010dervenanie poko\u017eky, n\u00e1valy tepla a brnenie na \u010dastiach tv\u00e1re, na ktor\u00e9 bol pr\u00edpravok aplikovan\u00fd, \u010do sa neodpor\u00fa\u010da najm\u00e4 pre citliv\u00fa a jemn\u00fa poko\u017eku. Tieto pr\u00edznaky by sa v\u0161ak nemali zamie\u0148a\u0165 s podr\u00e1\u017eden\u00edm sp\u00f4soben\u00fdm kyselinov\u00fdm ph kozmetiky. Vznik kyseliny nikot\u00ednovej je v dom\u00e1cich podmienkach m\u00e1lo pravdepodobn\u00fd, ale aby sme minimalizovali riziko tvorby tejto zl\u00fa\u010deniny, mala by by\u0165 kozmetika skladovan\u00e1 pri n\u00edzkych teplot\u00e1ch alebo pou\u017e\u00edvan\u00e1 kozmetika s dan\u00fdmi vitam\u00ednmi jedna po druhej. Treba tie\u017e doda\u0165, \u017ee \u010dist\u00fd nestabiln\u00fd vitam\u00edn C sa dnes v kozmetike pou\u017e\u00edva len zriedkavo, preto\u017ee bol nahraden\u00fd lipozom\u00e1lnou formou.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Stru\u010dne povedan\u00e9, vitam\u00edn C, v\u010faka svojim blahodarn\u00fdm vlastnostiam, je medzi poloproduktami prid\u00e1van\u00fdmi do kozmetick\u00fdch v\u00fdrobkov ve\u013emi popul\u00e1rny. Naj\u00fa\u010dinnej\u0161\u00edm deriv\u00e1tom vitam\u00ednu C, spomedzi vy\u0161\u0161ie uveden\u00fdch, je&nbsp;<strong><em>Tetrahexyldecyl-askorb\u00e1t<\/em><\/strong>&nbsp;\u2013 aj napriek jeho vy\u0161\u0161ej cene m\u00e1 mnoho v\u00fdhod, ktor\u00e9 ho odli\u0161uj\u00fa od in\u00fdch deriv\u00e1tov (napr. vysok\u00e1 stabilita, antibakteri\u00e1lny \u00fa\u010dinok a \u00fa\u010dinnej\u0161ie prenikanie do ko\u017ee). Vzh\u013eadom na existenciu r\u00f4znych foriem vitam\u00ednu C si v\u0161ak ka\u017ed\u00fd z V\u00e1s n\u00e1jde formu, ktor\u00e1 je pre V\u00e1s najvhodnej\u0161ia. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Prezrite si\u00a0<strong><a href=\"https:\/\/cosibella.sk\/sk\/menu\/cielena-starostlivost\/ucinne-latky\/vitamin-c-1382\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">kozmetiku s vitam\u00ednom C v na\u0161om obchode<\/a><\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A v pr\u00edpade ak\u00fdchko\u013evek ot\u00e1zok n\u00e1s nev\u00e1hajte kontaktova\u0165 aj na na\u0161om&nbsp;<strong>instagrame<\/strong>,&nbsp;<strong>facebooku<\/strong>&nbsp;alebo telef\u00f3nnom \u010d\u00edsle&nbsp;<strong>+421 233 221 070<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-social-links aligncenter is-content-justification-center is-layout-flex wp-container-core-social-links-is-layout-fe48e5de wp-block-social-links-is-layout-flex\"><li class=\"wp-social-link wp-social-link-facebook wp-block-social-link\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/cosibella.sk\/\" class=\"wp-block-social-link-anchor\"><svg width=\"24\" height=\"24\" viewBox=\"0 0 24 24\" version=\"1.1\" xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" aria-hidden=\"true\" focusable=\"false\"><path d=\"M12 2C6.5 2 2 6.5 2 12c0 5 3.7 9.1 8.4 9.9v-7H7.9V12h2.5V9.8c0-2.5 1.5-3.9 3.8-3.9 1.1 0 2.2.2 2.2.2v2.5h-1.3c-1.2 0-1.6.8-1.6 1.6V12h2.8l-.4 2.9h-2.3v7C18.3 21.1 22 17 22 12c0-5.5-4.5-10-10-10z\"><\/path><\/svg><span class=\"wp-block-social-link-label screen-reader-text\">Facebook<\/span><\/a><\/li>\n\n<li class=\"wp-social-link wp-social-link-instagram wp-block-social-link\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/cosibella.sk\/\" class=\"wp-block-social-link-anchor\"><svg width=\"24\" height=\"24\" viewBox=\"0 0 24 24\" version=\"1.1\" xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" aria-hidden=\"true\" focusable=\"false\"><path d=\"M12,4.622c2.403,0,2.688,0.009,3.637,0.052c0.877,0.04,1.354,0.187,1.671,0.31c0.42,0.163,0.72,0.358,1.035,0.673 c0.315,0.315,0.51,0.615,0.673,1.035c0.123,0.317,0.27,0.794,0.31,1.671c0.043,0.949,0.052,1.234,0.052,3.637 s-0.009,2.688-0.052,3.637c-0.04,0.877-0.187,1.354-0.31,1.671c-0.163,0.42-0.358,0.72-0.673,1.035 c-0.315,0.315-0.615,0.51-1.035,0.673c-0.317,0.123-0.794,0.27-1.671,0.31c-0.949,0.043-1.233,0.052-3.637,0.052 s-2.688-0.009-3.637-0.052c-0.877-0.04-1.354-0.187-1.671-0.31c-0.42-0.163-0.72-0.358-1.035-0.673 c-0.315-0.315-0.51-0.615-0.673-1.035c-0.123-0.317-0.27-0.794-0.31-1.671C4.631,14.688,4.622,14.403,4.622,12 s0.009-2.688,0.052-3.637c0.04-0.877,0.187-1.354,0.31-1.671c0.163-0.42,0.358-0.72,0.673-1.035 c0.315-0.315,0.615-0.51,1.035-0.673c0.317-0.123,0.794-0.27,1.671-0.31C9.312,4.631,9.597,4.622,12,4.622 M12,3 C9.556,3,9.249,3.01,8.289,3.054C7.331,3.098,6.677,3.25,6.105,3.472C5.513,3.702,5.011,4.01,4.511,4.511 c-0.5,0.5-0.808,1.002-1.038,1.594C3.25,6.677,3.098,7.331,3.054,8.289C3.01,9.249,3,9.556,3,12c0,2.444,0.01,2.751,0.054,3.711 c0.044,0.958,0.196,1.612,0.418,2.185c0.23,0.592,0.538,1.094,1.038,1.594c0.5,0.5,1.002,0.808,1.594,1.038 c0.572,0.222,1.227,0.375,2.185,0.418C9.249,20.99,9.556,21,12,21s2.751-0.01,3.711-0.054c0.958-0.044,1.612-0.196,2.185-0.418 c0.592-0.23,1.094-0.538,1.594-1.038c0.5-0.5,0.808-1.002,1.038-1.594c0.222-0.572,0.375-1.227,0.418-2.185 C20.99,14.751,21,14.444,21,12s-0.01-2.751-0.054-3.711c-0.044-0.958-0.196-1.612-0.418-2.185c-0.23-0.592-0.538-1.094-1.038-1.594 c-0.5-0.5-1.002-0.808-1.594-1.038c-0.572-0.222-1.227-0.375-2.185-0.418C14.751,3.01,14.444,3,12,3L12,3z M12,7.378 c-2.552,0-4.622,2.069-4.622,4.622S9.448,16.622,12,16.622s4.622-2.069,4.622-4.622S14.552,7.378,12,7.378z M12,15 c-1.657,0-3-1.343-3-3s1.343-3,3-3s3,1.343,3,3S13.657,15,12,15z M16.804,6.116c-0.596,0-1.08,0.484-1.08,1.08 s0.484,1.08,1.08,1.08c0.596,0,1.08-0.484,1.08-1.08S17.401,6.116,16.804,6.116z\"><\/path><\/svg><span class=\"wp-block-social-link-label screen-reader-text\">Instagram<\/span><\/a><\/li><\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Vitam\u00edn C &#8211; kyselina L-askorbov\u00e1 je v kozmetickej ch\u00e9mii a kozmetol\u00f3gii v\u010faka svojim ve\u013emi siln\u00fdm antioxida\u010dn\u00fdm vlastnostiam pova\u017eovan\u00e1 za vitam\u00edn mladosti.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":24,"featured_media":578,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[132,141],"tags":[203,204,220],"class_list":["post-68","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-ucinne-zlozky","category-vitamin-c","tag-sklady-kosmetykow","tag-skora-dojrzala","tag-witamina-c"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/cosibella.sk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/68","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/cosibella.sk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/cosibella.sk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cosibella.sk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/24"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cosibella.sk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=68"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/cosibella.sk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/68\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":4360,"href":"https:\/\/cosibella.sk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/68\/revisions\/4360"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cosibella.sk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/578"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/cosibella.sk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=68"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cosibella.sk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=68"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cosibella.sk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=68"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}